ABS Print Settings Guide: How to Print ABS Without Warping
ABS is notoriously difficult to print, but worth it for heat-resistant, tough, post-processable parts. This guide covers every setting and technique to get reliable ABS prints without warping, splitting, or fumes.
ABS has a bad reputation for difficulty, but it's worth learning if you need:
- Heat resistance (up to ~100°C vs PLA's 60°C)
- Impact resistance and toughness
- Acetone smoothing for a professional finish
- Machinability — ABS drills, taps, and sands better than PLA
If you don't need any of these, PETG or ASA are easier alternatives with similar benefits.
Essential: You Need an Enclosure
ABS warps because it contracts significantly as it cools. To prevent warping, the ambient temperature inside the printer needs to stay around 40–50°C throughout the entire print.
- Bambu X1C / P1S: Built-in enclosure — ideal for ABS
- Prusa MK4: Works for smaller parts; larger parts may need an enclosure
- Open-frame printers (Ender 3, Kobra): ABS on open frames is frustrating for large parts. Use an enclosure or switch to ASA (more tolerant)
Temperature Settings
Nozzle
Range: 230–250°C Start with: 240°C
ABS needs higher temperatures than PLA. Going too low causes poor layer adhesion and splitting. Going too high causes burning and degradation.
Bed
Range: 100–115°C Start with: 105–110°C
The hot bed keeps the bottom of the print warm, reducing the temperature differential that causes warping.
Fan Speed
Use 0% fan for ABS. Part cooling fans cause rapid, uneven cooling — the enemy of ABS prints. The only exception is for bridging and overhangs where you may use 10–20% briefly.
Bed Adhesion
| Surface | Adhesion Method |
|---|---|
| PEI (textured) | ABS sticks well when hot; releases when cool |
| Glass | ABS juice (ABS dissolved in acetone) or glue stick |
| BuildTak | Works with light surface prep |
ABS juice is the community-favorite adhesion method for glass beds:
- Drop a few cm of failed ABS print or wipe into a small jar
- Cover with acetone (enough to dissolve)
- Brush a thin, even coat on the bed
- Let dry completely before printing
Print Speed
Print slower than PLA. ABS benefits from slow, steady deposition.
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Perimeter / Wall | 40–50mm/s |
| Infill | 50–60mm/s |
| First layer | 20–25mm/s |
Slicer Settings for Warp Prevention
- Brim: Add a 10–15mm brim for any part with small contact area
- Raft: For very warp-prone geometries, a raft provides better adhesion than a brim
- Chamfer first layer: In PrusaSlicer/OrcaSlicer, enable "elephant foot compensation" to prevent the first layer from spreading (which causes corners to curl)
Fume Warning
ABS releases styrene and other VOCs when printed. Always print in a ventilated area or use an enclosed printer with an activated carbon filter. Don't print ABS in bedrooms or living spaces without ventilation.
Post-Processing: Acetone Smoothing
ABS can be acetone-vapor smoothed for a nearly injection-molded finish:
- Place print on a platform in a sealed container
- Pour a small amount of acetone in the bottom (don't let it touch the print)
- Seal for 20–60 minutes
- Remove and let dry in open air for an hour
Result: Layer lines disappear, surface becomes glossy and smooth.
Full Settings Cheat Sheet
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Nozzle temp | 240–250°C |
| Bed temp | 105–110°C |
| Fan speed | 0% (10–20% for overhangs only) |
| Print speed | 40–50mm/s |
| First layer speed | 20mm/s |
| Retraction (direct) | 1–2mm @ 30mm/s |
| Retraction (Bowden) | 5–6mm @ 45mm/s |
| Enclosure temp | 40–50°C ambient |